Why E-Blades Bounce

(And how the Micro-Mod prevents it)

The problem is in the programing of the board, the magnetic trigger return, and the switch its self:

A optical switch isn't like a normal switch, it's more like a dimmer switch.  If the beam is only partly blocked, the switch will put out a signal 1/2 the strength of the signal if the beam had been  completely blocked.  That means that very slight movements in the trigger can put the switch over the threshold, and make the board count it as a trigger pull.  There is no well defined line between on and off for an optical switch, and that leads to the bounce problem.  The Micro Mod fixes this.

By using a magnetic trigger return, the problem becomes worse.  When a trigger with a spring return is pulled, the spring is compressed, increasing the return force on the trigger.  This helps to push the trigger away from the switch.  With a magnetic return, the return force becomes weaker as the trigger is pulled, allowing it to flop around more.  Add this to the fact that the optic switch doesn't have a well defined On/Off point, and the bounce problem gets worse.  The Micro Mod also fixes this issue.

The last part of the bounce equation is the programing.  When an optic switch is used, the board is programed to count a certain amount of input from the switch as a legal trigger pull.  On the E1 boards, that setting is not adjustable.  The newer E2, and Zero-B boards do have this adjustment, but that doesn't help unless you want to spend the $80 or $250 to get either a new board, or a new frame.  The Micro Mod can't do anything to change the programing, but it does eliminate the problems that the new programing is intended to fix.

So, there is the technical reasons the Micro Mod helps eliminate bounce, but what does it do in the real world?  I'll use my personal gun as an example:
No magnetic return at all. The magnet has been removed from the frame completely.
Gun Setup:  Micro Mod, Stock E-Blade trigger, Worr Blade Bolt, Delrin Pull Pin, Stock 03 back block, Titanium Pump arm, Rex Hammer kit, 60 PSI cocking pressure.
With a 0.6mm trigger pull length, measured at the lowest point on the trigger, I had to use a TPUL of 8, and a TREL of 16 to achieve no bounce what so ever.  Using the Samurai trigger with the same trigger pull length, the filters were lowered to TPUL of 6 and TREL of 13 to achieve no bounce.

Same setup with the stock E1 trigger with a trigger pull that measured 1.25mm at the bottom of the pull gave zero bounce at TPUL of 4, and a TREL of 14.
With the Samurai, those dropped to TPUL of 3 and a TREL of 12.

Keep in mind, all of those settings were for no bounce what so ever, and with only the switch acting as a trigger return.
Now, what do I mean by "no bounce"? Here is how I check for bounce:
Take off the loader.
Find the center balance point for the gun.
Hold the gun at the balance point in your left hand. That should allow you to comfortably hold the gun without supporting either end.
Do not put the tank on your shoulder. The only contact points between you and the gun are your hands.
Very slowly pull the trigger with you right hand. Do not hold onto the frame, just slowly pull the trigger.  Now repeat the same test with the loader on, and paint in the gun.
If a gun is going to bounce, that will make it bounce, no question about it.

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